“RAW”chi “ShivGarjana”,“KALAKRAY Fatte!, Maharaj, Jeet Tumchich Aahe!” “Jay Ho!”
Purushottam Thakar, Giridarshan Trekking Club (GTC), Pune
19th, 20th February 2011, Kalakray Rock Climbing Expedition, GTC Get Raw event
Photo Courtesy by Sudharshan Sutar and Rest of the participants and leaders
“Shreemant Chatrapati, Shiavaji Maharaj Ki , Jay! Jay Bhavani, Jay Shivaji, Har-Har Mahadev”
The Success of the Kalakray Summit is wholeheartedly and sincerely dedicated at the feet of our god, Shree Chatrapati Shivaji Maharaj.
The second salute goes to our own brave boy, Avinav Rau who made the Lead Climb of kalakray.
Earlier in February
“Kay zalay tail-bailache?” I asked Vikas, He was putting pieces together for Tail-Baila, and was also busy with SCI project, Vajeer Re-bolting. Coming just out of Kokan Bike Expedition. Nervous, little exhausted, confused. I could gauge his desperation to arrange it.
7 days later, its confirmed , We will not be able to make it for Tail-Baila, lack of availability of experts, less time available for preparations, lack of availability of leaders , various parameters. Every day we postpone, the activity was getting tougher, Also worried about the Heat factor on rock face if we do it in March. Finally, we called it quits, no point in doing this in hurry and managing somehow, never want to compromise on the quality of the service and arrangements for such a big expedition.
Cancelled.
What next? The communication has already happened, participants are already preparing for the big expedition ahead, practicing in Taljai Rock quary every Saturday, Sunday. Everybody was charged, vocal about the expedition. Will it go waste?
No Way! We are RAW, We never give upJ, And the best thing happened, we both thought to pull in Kalakray Rock Climbing expedition a month ahead, which was scheduled for March. It’s a done deal.
One of the fastest decided expedition. 10 days left. Message was sent across GTC community and we were thrilled by the love exhibited by our fellow family members on us.
Chandu, Chetan , Dinesh as usual sparkled, people were joining from different parts of city, outside city, and the gang was ready, till last minute we were counting. We are full, the response was so full that we had to say no to many people sorry about that, but we wanted to do the best and not compromise on anything.
Chandu planning for food arrangements…..He took the charge along with Dinesh….
Experts arranged, Ajay more, Sandeep, Harshad, dare-devils of NAFTA summit. Vikas, Avinav in top gear!
19th February 2011 2.30 Shivajinagar Station
I reached a little early at the station, except me nobody was there, Umesh spotted me and we had tea, by the time everybody arrived, massive luggage, huge equipment sacks, big food sacks, Water Cans and what not….
Got the tickets, little confusion, somebody actually went to pune station, then travelled back to shivaji nagar, clock was ticking, few were boarding from akurdi, chinchwad. But all is well.
By 3.06 Local arrived, Pune-Lonavla, we jumped in, and Oh God! Few of us landed in Luggage Compartment and you know what? We were dumped amidst lots of raw fish, smell and smell everywhere, Ewwwwww! Nevermind we are raw too…but this smell…ewwww…. I think I’m allergic to it….the itching has begun in the throat….but never thought of it before….
Back of the mind….
What an Auspicious (Mangal) day today!
It’s Shivjayanti today, the city is decorated, statues, photos, posters, flowers, Rangoli, Powade, Patriotic Songs…Commotion, JayJaykar everywhere……
I’m charged with emotions, remembering Maharaj and his dare-devil acts, courage, intelligence, vision and what not. A complete man he was and still is in our minds.
What a special day we started for Kalakray Battle! Have you thought about it?
“Maharaj, Mohimela chalaloy, Ashirwad dya.”
19th February 2011 Kamshet
Our usual pit stop. Chandu, chetan dinesh getting vegetables for tomorrow’s food arrangements. Vikas, Avinav and I are trying to arrange vehicle to reach to Jambhivali.
Got one tempo, All aboard, and through to Jambhivali.
We could see some Para gliders on the hills on our right, 4..5..6..10 and plenty, what a site it was, May be RAW’s next activity what say?
On the left in one of the village, a ground full of crowd and commotion, it was bullock cart race, it was organized for shivjayanti and in the memory of one of the bulls. Terrific site, soil fog, bulls chasing horses followed by bullet’s and hola-hola shouts, the race is on.
So we are racing with our confidence, towards Kalakray, first technical difficult climb for many of us. Its 2nd time for me, but I was happy for rest of the gang, most of them will start their rock climbing career from now on. Smiles.
Our vehicle stopped at something, Ohhh wow! People dancing on folk tunes, big vehicle With DJ on board, some rustic songs, equally rustic crowd, soil fog, kids, children, adults, elderly, girls, boys, men, women a flock, celebrating Shivjayanti…beautiful site… mixed colors….of love, friendship, remembrance of great Maratha warrior, zing, nasha…..
Stoppage is cleared…enroute…. Chetan back with his Jokes, Shreyansh joined in, Dinesh, Sudarshan…laughs, gigs, claps, hi-fi’s,clicks…..
The throat infection has started kicking in…..unrest….God….please not again….i had a terrible one at Vanarlingi Re-bolting project….please give me strength till tomorrow until we finish the expedition….
19th February 2011 Jambhivali
An hour journey…. Boarded down at Jambhivali temple…..sacks are out….avinav helping to get them down….people roaming around…hot tea is on the way…….
One more group in site…..from Mumbai…they are going to Dhak Fort…..Cheerful leader…..
We are free today…..as everything was pre-arranged….keeping in mind the rest required before the difficult climb tomorrow…..
Vikas, Avinav and team of experts sitting in front of big equipment stack…counting….and preparing individual setup…..
Harness, Screw gate, pair of mittens, rope sling, Descender, helmet, snap, tape sling , that’s one set. 10 men identified, sets were handed over, and it’s now their responsibility to keep track of it. At the end of the event count must match.
Its full moon out here, air getting colder, people hanging out here and there, a group of people sitting in yard beyond village school, chitchatting, gossiping, sharing jokes, experiences.
Anxiety flowing in everybody’s mind.
The other trekking group equally excited to know about our activity, we explained them how and what we are going to do, and they were mesmerized, they wished us best of luck.
8.30 Dinner was ready, bhakri, flower-matar rassa, rice, daal, and buttermilk, ummmmm….Relishing taste……
It’s time for instructions….
We formed a circle, introduction followed by isntructions…Sandeep started giving us safety instructions….everybody was taking a note of them at the back of mind…..
The Experts group, Ajay, Sandeep, Harshad, Vikas, Avinav headed towards Kondhehwar temple in the night…they were going to leave early in the morning towards Kalakray to fit the rope setup to save time….
And I left with the rest of the team.
Cough, cough and cough….everywhere…I was not able to stand by that serious irritation in my throat….
We captured the place inside the temple for our bedding….we need to go to sleep early….we need enough sleep before tomorrow’s hardwork…….
Meantime we arranged a local guy to support us for water arrangements….
With all the anxiety packed in their minds, with the confidence gained from the practice sessions…people started getting in to their bedding one by one….
I was still restless due to continuous coughing….finally I decided to go to Madhav’s car….Madhav and Suyog arrived late by his car…..
Mr. Pawar and his group also came by car….everybody settled in the bed now….
Its 12.30 I’m still awake….coughing…..had antibiotic shot…but no relief…2.30 im still awake……roamed around a bit…….4.00 AM im still awake…Madhav full stretched in next seat…..
Its 5.00 …about to sleep and my mobo started beeping….that was the alarm I had set…..Damn…..no sleep….
The mountaineering spirit did not allow me to stay back….my mind was running at the top of kalakray….last year’s summit in front of eyes….smiling Vikas and avinav in front…..and I’m on my feet again….
20th February 2011 5.00 AM
“Giridarshannnnnn……Get RAWWWWW”, I threw the first shout to wake up everybody….as anyways I was awake the whole night…..
Morning shores, and Breakfast ready, Garam Pohe and Garam Chaha……ummmm…. Chandu, Murnal bhay, dinesh, chetan, pakcing sacks….we were rearranging our sacks to carry only essential and necessary material with us….all unnecessary material was kept back….water bottles filled…..
Its chetan and dinesh who took the lead….im backing up….
Chandu and Mrunal bhay left back, to catch the breakfast parcel for our experts group waiting for us up there in the Kalakray ridge….
I announced …we MUST reach to the ridge by 7.30 ….that’s what we promised the experts group…..
Mornign breeze…with the Waterman we started towards Kalakray….I asked repeatedly to dinesh whether he knows the route right….he was confident….
Towards Kodheshwar….15 minutes’ walk and take right through the paddies up to the hill through jungle….
Up on the first plateau, that was fast…good job chetan and dinesh….no rest….7.30 we must reach…clicks..clicks….clicks….beautiful morning….dhak in site….on the second plateau….down through the jungle and up in the ridge…straight in 1 hour ….non-stop flight….its 7.45 never mind….
Vikas welcomed us with his “RAWWWWW” shout….he was shooting all of us through my cam corder….
Rope was fixed…..Avinav still on the top…..he made the lead climb……Brave boy….knotty boy…hehehee…Jokes apart….you have to have heart of steel to do lead climb….mind it…the belay is not from the top…it’s from the bottom…..If you fall…it’s a double fall… e.g. if you climb 15 ft from ground and fall then you will fall 15 ft till ground but if you are doing this climb where there is not much place at the base…then its 15 up + 15 Below...so total 30 ft fall….Hell Risky! But someone has to do it ….otherwise…how others will summit? Get me? So please pay thanks to Avinav….and cheer him up for this courageous act…not an easy one dude…but I’m sure you did it with zeal and passion for rock climbing….
Let’s take a short diversion from the narrative to cover what happened when we were not there, the lead climb story bellow….
Video Available at :- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rIDGWf1D5NI
Leading the Kalakraay.........
Leaving the participants for Uttam to handle, a technical team of 5 people left Jambivli, including , Ajay More, Harshad Rao, Sandeep Chavan, Vikas Kaduskar and Avinav Rau. That night we deciced to sleep at the Kondeshwar temple as we could spoil our sleep if we would got to the Dhak cave.
I, Avinav, that night took advice from the experts , Ajay, Sandeep and Harshad. Vikas also told me about his last year's experience, as he had led the climb that time. I got a lot of knowledge of belaying, stationing, leading the climb etc...
After a lot of chit chatting , we all went to sleep . Next morning , Vikas got u at 4:30 ....We all woke up at 4:50. We packed our bags and were about to leave, just then the other group of people offered us tea they had made . sharing 2 cups between of us, we left Kondeshwar temple to the Pinnacle base.
We reached the Base in approx 1 hr. Around 6 – 6:30 .As there was a bit dark,using my Petzl Tikka 2 head lamp for light, we removed all the gear from our rucksacks arradged it on a carrymat and started gearing up. I was going to lead the climb, was in mixed mood of tension happiness and confidence. Ajay helped me gear up and made my climbing rack ready, 4 quick draws on the left, 5 on the right, belaying devices on back side, self anchor on my left side, helmet on my head, attached the head lamp to it , worshiped the gear, prayed God for my successful climb and started the climb........“ I am climbing “......“ climb On“ said Sandeep the belayer.Taking a route from the right side , I started the climb......the Pinnacle is fully Bolted by Safe Climbing Inititive , so I didn't have any tension of my safety. After climbing 10-12 feet, I spotted a bolt on a rock, clipping a QD climbed further and went on clipping the rope till the base of the 1st station. The slope gradient is low till the base of 1st station. Ajay had gone free till the base.Then came Harshad after I fixed the rope . I had to fix the rope throught the route. On the base of the 1st station the belay was off. Ajay was the belay man till the 1st station climb. Climbing carefully I took a route to the 1st station...but I went a bit far from the original route. It was from right , but I took a route from left. Then /......Haash.....heaved a sigh of relief self anchored myself.....Vikas shouting from down.....“ Adhi self anchor tak , baki cha sagla nantar kar.“ After anchoring myself, I fixed the rope to the bolt and Ajay came Jummaring to the station. After Ajay, Harshad came to the 1st station. Now was the time of the real test.......
THE MOVE (Beduk Move)
that we ll were waiting for......one has to hug the rock completely. Kalakrayla Mithi marli........The most difficult move of the climb. Ajay was to belay further. I started the climb , took one step upwards, there was a bolt, clipped a QD and passed the rope. The next bolt was below the overhang. Taking the next foothold pushed myself a bit upwards and got a left handhold. On my left hand hold I clipped the QD to the next bolt. But it was not yet done.......I was on that move for full 5 mins. I was not able to shift my balance ahead. I was directly looking for a crack which was there on the 2nd ledge start. But could noe find it. Taking a pinch hold above my chest I moved forward and the got to see the crack. Then the work was done. I held the crack and finished the move.. I was then supposed to anchor the rope to the bolt and a hanger making it a station so that the next man , ie Ajay would come further. Then as Ajay came we moved further. The next climb was of approx 20-25 ft with some patch of scree . Ajay with belay on I started climbing the next patch. In 10 minutes I was on the summit. Shouting loudly SUMMIT , I expressed my feeling of happiness ...that at last I have led a climb.......More to go.....through out the climb there was a lot of cold winds blowing....my first fingure of my right hand had also become numb. But still continued putting my fingure in my mouth and warming it up. ....This was the most memorable experience . I hope with grace of Godand is blessings and encouragement from Team Giridarshan, Raw , all my dear friends, and my Family I will lead and climb more and more routes, Pinnacles in my future Adventurous life.
20th February 2011 8.30
People already started gearing up…I was helping them to put up harness…check their rope slings…bow lines….anchors….we are ready for “Aakraman”….first batch of 10 Mavala …ready for attack Sir….
Dinesh was the first…I anchored him on the fixed rope….looked at Sandeep who was handling top belay at that time….
“Belay Check”,”OK”’, Climbing”…………”Climb ONNNNNN….Belay Tiggghhhhttt”…..Phew…..Dinesh on his way….seasoned practice made no mistake till the first station….Vikas was there to guide on a slightly tricky hold at the end of the first station….took his time…and he was up to the first station safely…anchored…and now on the first ledge…..
Next….and I started sending people one by one….some felt it difficult to clear the tricky hold at the top ..some cleared it nicely….for some…self-anchor locked against bolt…forgot to pass on QD(Quick-Draw)….but managed it….
Last in the batch was Madhav….Madhave Kulkarni A.k.a. Madhav Shastri, Vikas’s favourite student….he has given us hard time on fort madan climb…but we like him…although struggles a lot….but never gives and completes the climb….He was much better this time…he required no assistance till first station…wow…that’s superb…we are happy for him……
Done…first batch on the first station….Ajay , Harshad rappelling down with bare hands(How do they manage this god knows)….for grabbing Pohe…..break for some time now…..they were absolutely playing with the rope like anything…jumaring up and rappelling down whenever they want….it was kind of routine for them…
Check Video :- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61s1LDLtl7M
Check Video :- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61s1LDLtl7M
Guys back up again...now is the critical move….somebody named it “Beduk(Frog)” move…hee move kartana manoos bedakasarkha disto mhanun…Beduk move…heheehehe….(At the time the person takes this move, looks like a crab is moving, so named as frog move, There is a similar move available in taljai rock quarry while we do our practice so people remember that spot here)
The criticality of this move is…..you have to rise on your left foot..with left hand upward hold..and then stretching right hand up on the upper ledge… And finding the crack on the other side of the rock wall….while you do this you are leaning outwards…and on your right side…deep valley exposure of at least 800 ft.? Should be...and entire dhak wall…..Once you get this crack you are done….
You can take hold of the Bolt…but it’s up to you whether to hold it or to do pure rock climbing move ;) … “Khaaz asel tar rock climbing move karto”
Phew…..I had a fall from this move in last time summit….although I finished the summit…I tell you…its hell scary…”Ithe tumchi cheerfaad hote”…. If you fall here….i bet….for a second…your entire life film rewinds in front of your eyes….your wife, kids, parents, friends….heheehhe…I have experienced this…but don’t worry the setup is excellent you are safe….
Dinesh….made it look so classic….Practice is showing its effect….”You all…who all are reading this….and want to join this rock climbing expedition…Come on ..Get up and go for practice”
Dinesh as easily climbed the Beduk move, as swiftly he completed his Summit…..Last 45 feet….straight up…exposure on your back….only 1 foot can be adjusted at the base….it’s such a small ledge….you are facing towards rock….you can see the entire exposure through your legs….the move is called “Pull Up” move…the way you do pull ups in gym…the 2 holds right above your head…pull up yourself up and you are on the way… don’t forget to pass the QD for the first bolt there…because if you are locked here…damn…it’s hard to pass the QD….you are jammed …you can’t come down…coz you can’t make your mind to come down….neither the calling happens …you are on your own….so be careful while you are climbing…. Slightly left and then straight up….to one more bolt ….last 15 feet…..its scree…..only soil….but never mind…that’s firm soil…and you are on top belay anyway…so you are done…..
Dinesh….Boy? How are you feeling? Top of the world? Touching the sky? Man….I’m not their at the top….but I can feel your satisfaction…you must be feeling to shout… But nothing comes out of mouth…it’s just the sense of accomplishment that stays there ...That roams in entire body…you have done something special...extra…than a normal individual…..I’m sure….you are telling everyone…..the entire world….
“KALAKRAY Fatte!, Maharaj, Jeet Tumchich Aahe!” “Jay Ho!” I’m RAWWWWWW….I HAVE GUTS…I Can sustain When Going Gets Rough…..Koi hai maai ka laal? Challenge? Are Kon mhante…madan la majhi fatli hoti….Quechua kay….Are atta bol…karto ka aamna samna…Damn it….Kela…Kalakray Kela….First Climb kela…Awaaaz kunacha? Hay kay himmat? Chayla bhangar….:)...Maaz aaahe mala…aahech , asnarach….Are AWWAAAZ KUNACHA? GET RAWWWWWCA...GIRIDARSHANCHA....”
(I seriously don’t know how he really reacted to his first climb, but I would have reacted the same way...rather I reacted the same way when I completed Kalakray summit last year)
Practice makes a lot of difference…it elevates the confidence….you can get the real feel of rock climbing….the real feel of adventure….
Chetan, Sudarshan, Sanjay, Harshal, Sameer, Madhav….All are on top….top of their fear. Top of their courage... Top of their confidence… and what not?....Wish I could have taken a decision to climb with you guys…..i miss the top……
I think chetan is handling top belay now from top of kalakray…..the place looks big though but it’s risky….max 12 people can sit here…close by…its surrounded by dry grass and scree, so without self-anchor you are not allowed to roam around…or move around here…be careful guys….
The coughing is still on….but I’m still standing…..
I can see some folks rappelling back down from first station….that’s sad….we didn’t want this….
We wanted everybody to complete the summit…..Looks like they lost their confidence on “Beduk” move…never mind….at least they reached first station……Bravo…we are sure… Next time you will be first to complete the summit...you are RAW…..so are we….
20th February 2011 12.30 Noon
Mmmmmmm… it smells so nice….ohh I didn’t mean that….im telling about the nice smell of “aamti” and “bhaat” which Chandu and his team has cooked for u….Chandu….”Are tu nakki kashapasun banlays re baba?”…..
This guy has managed to cook Rice and Daal for entire team of 27 people….we are so grateful to you…
What a lovely gesture this is…..what a treat…after such a hardwork of climbing and in that small palce available, in the afternoon heat….if you get “Garam aamti ani bhaat? Wah, kya kehane”….Jiyo chandu and gang….He offered me “Baingan Bharta” and Chapatis, What a taste man….I’m feeling so homesick J
Hats off….
Second batch is ready…Mr. Pawar and Group first….Rappelling from top has begun….it’s going to be 2 staged…with top belay to the first station….and with fireman belay (I’m the fireman now) from below…till base….the total control of the rope was in my hand from below…this is scary though…I have to keep watching the rappelling man continuously…watch his moves…his speed and adjust rope accordingly…the lock was in my hand…had I been careless or casual…I would have caused injury to someone ….
“Ajay Belay UP”, “Ajay Belay UP” I was calling from the root of my belly….sometimes the calling needed to be done triangular...from top to the opposite tekadi and then towards us….this was helping to drain some more energy….huhh!
My coughing is not stopped…I’m feeling sleepy…Drained…no sleep yesterday….extremely sleepy….its 4.00 in the afternoon….i asked Vikas about our summit….we thought we will decide on the time left…..
Second batch started climbing…at the same time I was handling the fireman belay…..I’m still standing….
Check Video at :- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FisyqVWBYO0
Check Video at :- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FisyqVWBYO0
By now Chetan, Dinesh and almost all the first batch has rappled down…I need sleep…Avinav rappelled down….he had lunch…Vikas still standing high….
I disappeared in bushes….I could hear calling for my name….but I dozed off for a while……completely asleep…..I called it quits…..its late to climb now…..no energy left…..I would have stretched…but if coughing could cause one more fall at Beduk move….i would have absolutely drained….and I did not want that… Called it quits…..Disappointed but that’s ok….the decision was right….next time dude….
2nd batch was fast…again somebody is not climbing up from Beduk move…..and rappelling from first station itself…don’t do this guys…we are here for you….please complete summit….It’s your chance to win over...but no compulsion…this place is not for that… no risks….
Mr. Pawar gang is down… Decision taken…whosoever has completed activity except few folks….all will leave to Jambhivali….again…
Dinesh. Shreyansh, chandu…. chose to stay back with last batch…to help winding the setup …..
Wrap and Fun Check video at :- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=85KNSxViyo8
Wrap and Fun Check video at :- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=85KNSxViyo8
First 16 started back….we tried to pick up maximum load with us…so the last batch has less load…but they had the biggest load of equipment and food utensils…..
20th February 2011 7.00 PM
Literally dragged myself on the verandah , ordered tea for everybody, chetan collecting equipment from those who came along, mapped it 1 to 1… he and madhav left early along with Mr. Pawar group…
Rahul taking some clicks…Parag sleeping…harshal resting…..kaustubh resting…all are resting…waiting for the gang to come back…..
Mean time the transport vehicle is arranged, standing in front of the house…waiting for the guys to come….
1 hour later…still no sign of people coming back…..finally local guys left for search….fearing animals…..but thank god…everybody was safe…. They were counting equipment up there…so they got late….
One more round of tea……I paid all the dues to kadam family for food arrangements....
All boarded on the transport vehicle….enroute to kamshet…..10.32 local was scheduled….
Got inside the local….as usual….Vikas, avinav on the floor…everybody on their back on the local train seats…
Shreyansh took out his tiffin , Peanut Chutney and Chapatti’s and curd, everybody is up again, RAW snakcs…slick Biscuit-Chutney, Biscuit- Curd, Biscuit-Chutney-Chapatti and what notJ…after all they all are RAW…..
I looked at Vikas, Avinav I felt to say “RAW” chi “ShivGarjana”, “KALAKRAY Fatte!, Maharaj, Jeet Tumchich Aahe!” Jay Ho!”
RAW is deep rising….
PS:- We realized later that, our expert group, Ajay, Sandeep, Harshad have missed the train(sorry about this) , but the they have managed to get another one…God bless them…because of their rock solid support and setup …we could manage this big activity for so many people…thanks guys…you have been fantastic…..looking forward to do more and more activities with you….
