Purushottam Thakar, Giridarshan Trekking Club, Pune
Do you remember when you did last “ratta” for Mathematics Paper? Must have been years by now. As always, whatever “ratta” you do, before Maths paper, the actual questions bowl you over.
Kind of a situation here… You are busy with other papers and you hardly get a chance to prepare for the Maths paper…and then you still appear for that difficult paper and you “Pass” it...wow…inexplicable happiness isn’t it?
Off course there are some sincere students…who regularly study and pass swiftly….but in this case… I’m sure …however and whatever preparation you do…the questions still sound to be out of syllabus….:p
It’s the 2nd high grade climb after kalakrai. We are making a gradual progression in the school of Rock Climbing.
13th November 6.45 AM Vetal Takadi, Pune
Students (Participants ) have gathered in the Small Scale Rock-Climbing School at Vetal Tekadi… (Veeru Sahastrabuddhe a.k.a. Vikas Kaduskar[Sorry Vikya for this name but this is apt for the situation]) Dean of the school….is present….watching every student carefully and keenly….Guiding and Advising them to do what preparation needs to be done before we go to our “Tail-Baila” Climb (Avghad Paper)….In his usual style… making sure that everybody is serious about the expedition… He has 2 efficient Trainers at his hand…Avinav Rau and Neeraj gadgil….who are relentlessly conducting the practice sessions every Saturday and Sunday…it’s been 4 weeks by now….Teaching the knots, taking exercise, giving homework, checking homework….
Vikas sir…taking the seasoned students to a new patch(Scholar Batch)… a difficult one… the qualification patch….and personally watching each and every move , the climber makes on the face….guiding, motivating and scolding if necessary….it was quiet obvious….that he wanted each and every participant to complete the difficult climb of Tel-Baila smoothly….
This was the last climbing practice session before Tail-Baila Climbing expedition….
27 Students (Participants) are going to take this exam. Hava tight!
19th November 10.00 PM GTC H.Q.
Pretty excited and little tense, gamut of emotions….participants are ready with their “Ratta” … revising it with each other….
Leaders are arranging stuff for expedition….Equipment’s….Gear…Food…Medical Kit…..and what not.
The batch of Leaders and Experts have already on the spot at Tail-Baila….They are done with All the arrangements….on the Tail-Baila….Rope Fixing is complete….Gear Segregated….and we just have to go there and climb….
Bus has arrived…All aboard… “Ganpati Bappa Moraya”…. On the way…. Picking up people in-between…way to Tail-Baila…. Full on Dhamaal….cracking jokes on each other…. Teasing our friends… Laughs for Gags….No Sleep ….All energy levels are high…..Shrayaunsh playing a comic role here… entertaining with his wit and humor….Prajakta is everybody’s “Bakra” tonight… Looks small girl but a good climber….
Rests of the sincere students are settled in their seats….we are the usual backbenchers but sitting in front seats and doing our own stuff …..as usual….
Through the Ambi-Valley Ghaat….beautiful road….good for biking… Sky is clear….Cold out there….Cool Breeze making us shiver….A little rough road to reach to the Tail-Baila…
20th November 1.30 AM Tail-Baila Base Village
The batch of Experts and Neeraj, Avinav are already in the Tail-Baila “Khind” resting after the difficult set up done.
Few participants have already arrived in the evening and deep asleep in the front yard of nearby house.
Amit Govande, the Team Captain today for the expedition, gathered everybody together and explained the plan for tomorrow.
Matts are out, sleeping bags out, sweaters and jerkins are out….Kantopi’s out… All Settled….Me and Sangram tool a stroll and found the morning “Event” spot for ourselves….
Sangram and me, settled in the small place that was available between the 2 vehicles parked in the yard… as long as we get a place to settle down we are fine with any place J
All tired with no sleep in the bus….Girls are still whispering …god knows from where they bring the energy to gossip at 2.00 AM…hehehe…Guyz dozed off….
Alarms are set to 5.00 AM…we have to start by 6.00 AM and reach the Khind by 7.00 AM….under any circumstances….we have to finish the activity before it gets dark…..its winter…daylight ends early…Pressure is building up…mixed with excitement and responsibility….after all its difficult climb today….Potat khalbal…Avghad Paper….
20th November 2.15 AM Tail-Baila Base Village
“Kkkkkkuuuuukkkkkkuuuuuuccchhhhaaaaaakkkkkkaaaaaauuuuuuu” “Kkkkkkuuuuukkkkkkuuuuuuccchhhhaaaaaakkkkkkaaaaaauuuuuuu”
“Kokkkkkk…Kokkkkkk”
Damn…Just touched my back to the mat…need good sleep before the hard climb…..This Rooster….he doesn’t have to climb…he can fly to some extent…but I can’t fly man….i don’t want to sleep for the difficult paper….
The village Rooster started shouting is “song”… it sounded to me like “Jagte Raho….Kal Maths ka Paper hai”…..and he was getting responses from the distances Rooster….it was an exchange…..it turned in to a Jugalbandi of Roosters…..
Everybody’s sleep was ravaged by this morning song of roosters…
Full kavkav… chidchid….I wish if I should turn nonvegitarian and turn that Rooster in to Full Butter Chicken and Biryani….tevahdhich energy….
God knows how much energy level will remain with everybody for the climb after having no sleep at night….that actually started making me nervous….the climb was difficult…and we need full energy….
Let’s see….how much we can do…..Limited time….difficult paper….no sleep…..that’s one combo….damn it…..
20th November 5.00 AM Tail-Baila Base Village
“Get RAW….Utha…..Awara….Kamala laga….”, (Vikas) – The dean ….Started waking up the participants…we had to start early…
Amit Govande and Prjakta started preparing tea…thanks guys….Viraj deshpande sat next to the hearth… the picture was looking like….Ganpati (Viraj) and Undir(Prajakta) at his feet…hehehe…
Me and Sangram….strolled around the spot which we had identified for our morning “event”… Finished with it…. “Vico Vajradanti” is out….done with teeth…. Good Morning Tea…..ithe Wafalta Chaha pinyasarkhe dusare such jagat nahi….ho na?
The Walls of Tail-Baila surrounded by Dawn’s Pink-Blue light outline…. Rocky yet beautiful sight….
It was cold… Dust is settled down under the dew….Fresh air of the untouched village….this is a special smell of the soil….it was filled with so much love and affection…..like a mother gives sweets to the child before going for the difficult paper….
All unnecessary sacks were kept in the bus…only the needed stuff packed in small sacks …enough water at the “Khind” so don’t need to carry a lot of water….
While everything was being packed…I started with the batch marching ahead….route to tail-baila starts from behind the house….it’s a big road…turns left to the paddy fields ….Started walking through the paddies…. On the way to Tail-Baila…..
The sky was started becoming light blue….filled with innocent early morning delicate light…..the route goes in to the bushes… we are going to Right Outer wall….from its base we will proceed to the “Khind”…not a difficult route….gradual slope….
As the sunlight started glittering …..the walls of Tail-Baila started bathing themselves in that glitterati…
The walls were resembling the walls of Grand Canyon in the film “Mackenna’s Gold”….Where they enter in the small opening in the mountain with Sunlight followed ….on the horses….a Must see shot….then you will realize what I’m talking about….
Reached to the base of Right outer of Tail-Baila wall….
Wow…the great SCI Bolt welcomed us fitted as test bolt at the base of right outer wall…..SCI (Safe Climbing Initiative) …SCI along with B.J. Medical college have done Bolting to all 4 climbing routes of Tail-Baila….The Bolt is called MG Bolt (Named after Mahatma Gandhi) …Bolt has 3000Kg of breaking strength…50 Years of endurance…made of V2A steel….fixed with Chemical Cement…using Makita Battery operated specialized drill machine….by Seasoned Climber’s team….Tested and Certified by German Alpine Association….Simillar bolting has been done by SCI and Giridarshan for Vanarlingi Pinnacle next to Jeevdhan Fort….more info available at
Safety first…We are going to use the same bolts for our today’s expedition….more information about SCI(Safe Climbing Initiative) can be found at
So don’t worry team….We are in safe hands (safe bolts)… J The cheat code is available…you decide whether to use it or not…we recommend…use it…
I’m excited although sad as well….Vikas can’t make it today…sitting alone at the base village….broken leg…hairline fractures….I’m sure how much it hurts when you are there and not able to do it…..
20th November 7.00 AM Tail-Baila Khind “Gear Up – Climb ON”
Hahahahaha! Palapal…Dhavpal….
Our experts team is still in “gulabi zop”….they saw prajakta reaching first….and started running for the morning chores….that was a surprise for them ….. we have kept the time…sharp 7.00 AM we reached the Khind….nevermind….I’m sure it was a tough task to make the lead climb with fireman belay and fixing the rope all alone the climbing route….
Small cave temple in the khind…2 water cisterns….inside…sweet, clear and clod drinking water….ample of it…. The place is clean n neat….flooring has been done…a safety wall is built…. The worship was on… one villager was shivering in front the deity, looks like some bad omen has happened to him…some evil power has possessed him….and the priest was helping to take that evil power out of him…. This is usual sight for us trekkers… we have seen it many times at many of the mountain cave temples….
All the gear was neatly arranged….A rope was fixed on the wall….Sets of Carabinners, QD’s, Mittens, hemets, slings, harnesses, descenders were ready…
We started gearing up participants….first batch of 5 people was geared up….
20th November around 8.00 AM Tail-Baila Khind “Gear Up – Climb ON”
Hemant moghe was ready with his fireman belay…. Ajay more already on the first station for top belay….
Very tight safety…2 belays…top and fireman….no risk….along with 2 self-anchors…one fixed line….
Each participant was ready with Harness fixed, Helmet, Mittens, Self, Snap, Screw gate, Descender, tape sling.
Sandeep Chavan, one of the experts showed us the demo, on how to use the gear, what to do on the face, how to do the changeover of self when stuck with QD’s. Explained the route. Explained all DO’s n Don’t’s.
Amit Govande our captain explained and re-enforced some of the instructions.
Bhushan showed the real climbing demo.
Extremely windy condition! Wind is roaring and running at terrible speed….through the “khind”…very difficult to stand….don’t know what will happen once the climbing starts….hands are getting cold….feet are getting cold….
First participant, Chandrakant, all Set… Hemant checked his climbing gear till his satisfaction… Belay check…Climbing….Climb On…..
Hhhhurrrrrraaaaaaaaaaaaayyyyy! Event Started.
Chandru did it as swiftly as he does always…..2 changeovers and done…he was on first station….
One move….very difficult….either you stretch your left leg to the waist level or fix the right leg in the crack …and rise on your feet…use your leg power than using your shoulder power….Or use the Tape sling arrangement…fix your right foot in the Tape sling …apply the pressure down wards and rise and take the upper hold using left hand…fix your left foot in the crack and you are done…
The best part…if you are stuck at this move and do something wrong…and fall off…you get a swing….on your right side… terrifying exposure….and on left side the rock…but never mind you are anchored so well…you just can’t miss it….you are on 2 belays….
Try hard ….don’t play too much and don’t be shy to use that arrangement….summit is important….how you did it…is the later part….save some time and energy for more difficult part….
Once you do the second changeover…. Completely lean on the rock wall….move towards your left….grab the ledge….no place to fix your feet since….the wall is broken…and the surface has come to flat to fix your foot…but….rise on your shoulders…..tapping the foot on the wall….and you are done… up on the narrow and exposed ledge….
“Pahila 25 markancha paper cover zala”….Husssssshhhhhh! dumchaak…
20th November 10.00 AM Tail-Baila Khind “Gear Up – Climb ON”
Vikas calling….as much time has passed by and only the first one has reached the first ledge….time is ticking ….he is guiding from base village…we have to speed up….
Flow has slowed down…some participants are really taking time….not their fault though…face is so steep…Extremely windy and difficult…
Some of them did not do their changeovers…got stuck….at times…somebody removed the wrong rope…
Leaders and experts had to re-arrange the ropes…it was eating a lot of time….but can’t help…
Sometimes the belay which was sent down to Hemant , Got strangled in other ropes due to the exteme wind….Hemant hand to do a lot of jugglery with the rope….but he is still standing….lots of patience…seasoned belayer…. Not sure if he has ate anything in the morning….gave him the climber food…nuts and dryfruits…and bread sandwich….but he had little since he was more focused on the activity and ensuring safety of each participant….
Cheering…motivating….we all sat beneath….watching everybody climbing the first face…
“Mera Number kab aayega?”
At 10.30 only the first batch of five have made through the first climb. Not sure if they have made it to the top, because we can’t see it from Khind.
We have to get everybody on the summit by 3.30 , then and then only we can finish the activity before the dark.
20th November 11.30 AM Tail-Baila Khind “Gear Up – Climb ON”
It is still extremely windy. I called up Nirant on his mobile who was leading the Ghangad-Tailbaila trek on the same day and told him to bring Lots of Chikki and fruits for leaders and experts. As with no sleep the energy was going down.
We are going to have lots of audience today as the batch of Trekkers arriving in the afternoon from Ghangad.
This time around…everybody was on the floor…waiting for their turn…eating bread jam…left over cream roles…..etc….
Girl’s batch started…you know what….Girls did it all time better….Cheers girls!
Look at Kedar…man...he is having a P.A. ….his own climbing shoes… of “Evolve”…. He tried some bouldering on the base…and OMG …he took the boulder of the mountain itself ….hehehehe…No insuries though….
Wind is still ON….
20th November 1.30 PM Tail-Baila Khind “Gear Up – Climb ON”
Neeraj, Avinav made their ascents and were on the first station….it’s their turn to give the belay… Nihar Sholay (Soley)….moved towards the cave above to help out Ajay and Bhushan….
By the time Rappeling set up was ready…
Ok…now I see the first batch on summit…..I got a call from Vikas that he is seeing some movement on the summit….and warned me to send our leaders to the top ASAP to control the exhilarated climbers not to move here and there without self-anchor for the safety. He was anxious and worried.
I believe Sandeep made it to the top and gave strict instructions. He was helped by Bunty who was belaying the people on the summit.
While Neeraj was about to start his climb, the belay got strangled again…this time it was very scary…because the belay got strangled against rock protruding outside the left edge of the rock wall towards valley exposure… it was Neeraj who started move to his right to free up the belay…
Finally Hemant instructed him to move left and free the belay from fixed line which was meant for passing the belay down….and done….
Hemant took a break, munched some snacks in the tent that was set up on the ledge of right wall…
“RRRRRREEEEEEEEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAACCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCHHHEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEDDDD”
I heard the shout at the base where Viraj was stationed to help rappelled down participants….Chandru is down J…..Good job…we are in time….So the rappelling line has started…..we are back on track….
Chandru, came back to the khind….wow…I can see the astonishing happiness on this face….sense of accomplishment….Asked him… “How was it?”…. Eyes speak louder than words….Sense of satisfaction…after astonishing climb….
I can’t put the exact words here…they will be censored….hehehe…but the crux is…. “It’s challenging, Not easy Man, but fantastic”
The lunch boxes are out….everybody is being so patient and waiting for their turn…. Rappeling is in flow…
Here comes Madhav shastri….Vikas’s favorite Student…. Done it again man….Great Job! Congrats Madhav!
Time is running … now we still have 10 more to go….but somehow I’m getting a feeling that we can still finish it before dark…..
First Five have finished their difficult paper J….Man I’m yet to write a single line….energy is running out…..anxiety is at its peak…
Mid batch has finished their first station….
Shrayaunsh, Sangram, Virag, Mandar are up on first station
Amit Govande and I…still at the base….
20th November 4.30 PM – Last Climb and Summit
You know what….Amit and me geared up…and….The other fireman belay was again strangled….Hemant cannot give us fireman belay unless its sorted out…too much of time will be wasted if that needs to be sorted out…Hemant winked at me and said “Do you really need the other belay?”…. Butterflies in my stomach….little scared…difficult patch… but never mind….I decided to go on single belay….Amya and me on the same boat of single belay… best of luch Amya….He was last man to climb….
Phewww! This is tough man….one fall and swing…I will be out of my mind…..fully focused…did my ascend… when I was at the second changeover just below the first station….I could see many eyes are watching me from bellow….
Ohh…the trekking batch had reached to the Khind….all eyes on me and amya….Harshal was calling out my name and I was stuck at that flat patch just below the first station…But done….Hussshssss! I smiled at Neeraj and Avinav….and Rested there for a while….Boom…that was tough….although the exposure was not much…but my legs have started trembling already….not pumped but I needed Glucose….
Amit made it look so easy man…I envy this guy….
We both on the traverse….anchored on fixed line….started moving carefully to the cave…..
We met Sangram, Shrayaunsh, Virag, Mandar there who just had come from the summit…. I saw their lit up faces and could see the happiness….Cheers! Shared hi-fi’s … Asked them how is it going ahead? They just laughed at me…and said….try your luck….Butterflies in the stomach again…
What I had heard from the experts that there is a patch of 15 ft. absolutely flat, with very little holds and exposed…
So, Bhushan put me in the belay….and he said…climb on…And….
“AWWWWWWWWWW” Jaw opened , eyes opened wide….and Full to “Shaaaaaaaaaaaalllaaaaaaa”…Nusti “Shaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaalllaaaaaa”. “Dhaaav Paaaal” “Palapal”….”Ekdam out of syllabus Prashna hota” “arrr full Aaaawwwwrrrraaaa patch aahe rao”
“Kassa Mhanje Kassa Chadhayche ithe” “Doka khajvun kes galaychi vel aali”
Now I realized “Tail-baila” chi shala hone mhanje kaay J, Majhi zali hoti …
“Kasli ladder ani kasala kaay….Kashat kaay ani Fatkyat Paay”…
It was not the actual stepped ladder….it was tape ladder… attached one above other….you have to fix your hands in the loops….hold it strong…lean backwards and fix your feet on the flat surface 90 degree parallel… and Pull…and Pull and Pull….As you take the first pull immediately you get the hold of 2nd loop…and move on….Sandeep was belaying me…and pulling me up….Done….Safe….Husshhhhh…sigh of relief….drained by now…..I told Bunty to give me belay for last patch….I could have done it without belay…but honestly….I thought if the setup is available….why not to use it….Thanks Bunty….
A little scree and “SSSSSSSUUUUUUUMMMMMMMMIIIIIIITTTTTTTT….Ohhhhh man”
Just Euphoria…No words to explain…Nasshaaaa…..Zing…..Maaz…Unmaaad…..Gamut of Emotions….
“Ppppphhhheeeeeewwww” “Done man” “All Smiles” Cheers and Joy….Waitin for Amit..Last man on top….Very well done Captain….followed by Neeraj and Avinav…Prajakta.,..Bunty….Sandeep…Nihar…..
Gathered together….All Smiles…click..click…click….Summit Photo is a MUST…
Avghad Paper Sutla Hota….bhale kathavar pass zalo hoto…pan akkhhi batch pass zali hoti…..Shalecha nikaaaal 100% take lagla hota….
Shouted with full strength and called Vikas who was sitting there all day …all alone at the base village…We have done it man…done it again….
Time-check 5.05 PM….
Started climbing down….this time…it was rappelling down through that “Shaala” patch….but not exactly rapple….it was more of climb down….Sandeep asked me to remove the tape ladders while I was on belay and climbing down….
Reached to the cave again….120 ft Rappel down was on the way…Bhushan again put me in belay…and down…..The rappel was full of scree and overhang…..but no worries…we have the experience of duke’s nose rappelling….and may be this one is practice for duke’s nose rappelling expedition in January….
Hatt’s off to our experts team….Bhsuhan, Hemant, Ajay, Hemant, Bunty…. Men behind this successful expedition…thanks a lot team…without you this would have been a difficult mission but you guys have made it so smooth for us….
20th November 6.30 PM Tail-Baila Khind ,Wrap -Up
All rappelled down…. We started to segregate the gear again…Wrap up started….Hemant was sitting on the floor…. Doing accounting of all the gear…it was dark by that time…Bhushan had done the “U” loop rappel, the last man’s rappel….Hungry team started munching the food….Hard work of full day…pretty amusing to see these experts….
All things packed and torches are out….on the way to base village….Neeraj entertained everybody with his typical trek songs….
20th November 8.00 PM - Way to home
Vikas was waiting desparately….
“All Summit vikya…. Mission Accomplished”… Amya…Me…Sangram….Avinav….Virag….Viraj….Hemant…Bhushan…Ajay…Sandeep….Nihar….Bunty…. Great Teamwork…..We hugged each other…shared the joy of one more successful summit….Another feather in the cap of GTC GET_RAW…..
All aboard….back in the bus….Bodies everywhere…..after all everybody was content….everybody needs sleep….
Eyes heavy……petals closing in…..settled in the stairs….next to amya…..every inch of body is aching….but no hard pain…rather each and every part of the body was thrilled and happy….after all….
Tail-Baila” chi “Shaala”, “Get_RAW” cha Avghad Paper…100% Nikaal… “Ghavghavit Yash ;-)”
Shaala Sutli…Pati Futli….Naven Shala….Naveen Paper….Avghadach….Yetoy….Manat lagech “Madan” warichi tayari suru zaliy…..I’m going….tumhi yetay na? chala ghari ja…fresh wha…ani practice chalu kara….
Signing off
See you at Madan
